Build Instructions for MSP430 Launchpad Digital Readout Controller

Thursday, July 11, 2013

I’ve been receiving an increasing number of requests to post some build instructions for the digital readout controllers. While working on the step-by-step guide (and building a unit in process) I got sidetracked and ended up designing a controller that can read multiple scales. Even though that project still requires some work I decided to update the basic version of the readout controller to be pin-compatible with the new version.

In this post I will concentrate on the MSP430 Launchpad DRO controller that can read up to four iGaging scales using the middle-of-the-road build described in the Parts List for MSP430 Digital Readout post.

In future, if you decide to add non-iGaging scales the only change you will need to is to add the buffer board between the scales and the Launchpad and upload new firmware.

Step 1 - Remove the Headers

The new revision of MSP430 Value Line Launchpad ships with the 0.1” headers installed. It’s possible to solder the wires directly to the pins but to keep things neat I prefer to remove the headers altogether. This is much easier to do if you first remove the plastic that holds them together. To do so I simply cut it in a few places and them using a hobby knife of a sharp screwdriver to pry the pieces out.

Using a pair of clippers, cut the plastic in a few places

Once the plastic is gone flip the board over and desolder the pins one-at-a-time.

Once the plastic is removed the pins are much easier to desolder

Tip: when desoldering the pins keep your hands suspended and when you see the solder melt, quickly hit the hand with the board on the table. The pin should fall out and leave a clean hole.

The LaunchPad is ready for the next step

Step 2 - Prep the Scale Connections

Tip: Keeping the cable intact can be handy if you want to use the remote readout display that the scales came with (for troubleshooting, for example).

Option A - USB Breakout Board

If you have decided to use Sparkfun’s Mini-USB breakout boards, now is a good time to solder the leads to them, otherwise skip to option B.

I used the wires scavenged from an old USB cable to keep consistent color scheme. The easiest way to get the wires out is to cut a slit along some length of the cable and peel off the outer isolation. Inside you will likely find four wires: Red, White, Green and Black that carry Vcc, Clock, Data and Ground respectively. The holes on the breakout board are marked Vcc, D-, D+, ID and Gnd. D- in this case corresponds to the clock like and D+ is the green data line.

Tip: Tinning the stipped end of the wires makes the assembly easier and reduces the risk of stray strands creating shorts.

The connection follows the USB standard wiring

To keep the setup neat I chained the common connections (V+, Clock and Ground). This requires inserting two wires into one on two out of three breakout boards. As long as the wires are fairly thin this should cause any problems. Alternatively you can solder the wires as shown in the picture below.

Vcc, Ground and Clock can be connected as shown to keep the setup clean

Option B - Direct Connection

The easiest way to connect the scales to the board is, of course, to directly solder the wires. To do so, remove about 2" of the outer isolation and strip a quarter of an inch off each wire.

Tip: to make the set up a bit more robust drill the holes in your DRO enclosure, thread the cut cables from the outside and tie a single knot. This will prevent the cables from being accidentally torn out.

Step 3 - Connect The Power

There are a couple of Vcc and Ground connections available on the Launchpad board. Since on this unit the USB boards are on the right it’s most convenient to use the pins in the lower right corner of the board. If you followed Step 2.A you should have a read Vcc and a black Ground wires that should be soldered to Vcc and Gnd respectively, connected to the ground

Vcc and Power connected to the LaunchPad

Otherwise you will need to solder the tree Vcc and three Ground wires together. This is a bit easier if you first twist them together first.

Step 4 - Connect the Clock Lines

On this version of the controller Pin 1.7 provides clock to all connected scales so all three white wires need to be soldered to it. Unless you are using a heavier wire than what comes in the USB cable they should fit fairly easily.

All three clock lines are connected to P1.7 (clock out)

Step 4 - Connect the Data Lines

The green wires are soldered to pins 2.3, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.7. These are the “data-in” lines for the Z, Y, X and W axes respectively. Please note, P2.7 is marked XOUT on the board since it’s duplexed with the external crystal output on MSP430G2553 chip.

Data lines X,Y, Z connected to P2.3 - 2.5 respectively

Step 5 - Connect the Bluetooth Transceiver

The Linvor module needs three connections: Vcc, Ground and Rx. I’m using a piece of three-conductor cable scavenged from a hobby servo that use Red, Brown and Orange for those lines.

A standard servo cable soldered to the Bluetooth module

Note:Servo cables come in two common color schemes: Black/Red/White and Brown/Red/Orange corresponding to Ground/Vcc/Data.

New version of Launchpad has both Tx and Rx lines marked as “UART” since the new “G” chips have them flipped. Regardless of which version of the board you have, Linvor’s Rx pin needs to be connected to the Luachpad’s Tx (pin 1.2).

The Vcc line can be soldered to the nearby Vcc pin but there is no Ground pin on this side of the board. You can either run a longer ground wire around the board to the Gnd pin in the lower right corner or scrape of a bit of the solder mask and solder the wire to the ground plain.

The "Rx" line is soldered to "Tx" pin on the LaunchPad

Step 6 - Add Bypass Capacitors

This step is completely optional but to be on the safe side I prefer to add 0.1 uF capacitors between each scales Vcc and Ground. Since the pins are too thick to fit into the holes with the wires already inserted, so I soldered them to the bottom pads (ala surface mount).

Optional bypass capacitors between Vcc and Ground

Conclusion

At the end of this process you should end up with a unit that looks something like the first picture. This is a good time to dust off a multimeter (if you own one), plug in the board and make sure that the breakout boards and the BT module are getting power etc.

The board is now ready for the firmware that is available in the “Downloads” section.

95 comments :

  1. With regard to soldering the Bluetooth ground wire - TP3 (near the Launchpad's USB port) is ground. Using this point is a lot more accessible than scraping away solder mask. Just thought you'd like to know :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Dillon
      Thank you for the tip. I didn't even think of checking the test points...

      Delete
    2. No problem, I wouldn't have thought about exposing the ground plane. To each their own.

      Delete
  2. Evening Yuriy. The Z axis is reading different that the X and Y. Had an extra Launchpad, so, I built another one. Same results. Using SmartRF, I flashed one with the .txt and the other with .hex. Results stayed the same. Any ideas

    Thanks

    Frank

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Frank,
      I fixed the bug in V1.2 (uploaded a few minutes ago).
      Please let me know if you still have the problem with the new firmware.

      Thank you

      Delete
  3. The new patch works perfect.

    Thank you

    Frank

    ReplyDelete
  4. hello Yuri,
    I just converted this code (Initial version) from MSP430 to Tiva ARM Cortex 4 Launchpad. Let me know if you want to take a look.

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Harish,
      That would be great.
      The "mixed scale" version I'm working on will use Tiva (got my two units a few weeks ago). I still need to port some code to it (started with MSP430 but that little MCU is having serious trouble keeping up). If you want to collaborate on that project please email me and I will give you access to the repository (once it's set up).

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  5. Let me know your email id Also I can send you link to my Blog, where I will post this ?

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Harish,
      My email is ycroosh at gmail dot com.

      Thank you

      Delete
  6. Hi Yuri, I sent you the link yesterday. let me know if you got it ?

    ReplyDelete
  7. Yuriy,

    Excellent work.
    Is it possible to also support a tachometer with the MSP430 Launchpad?

    Vernon

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes (in future). The app doesn't have any means to display it yet but there are provisions in the communication protocol that will allow it.

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  8. Yuriy
    Excellent work

    Can I use the USB port of the lauchpad to send data to the tablet ?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, Launchpad's USB doesn't work with the app, but you can connect the UART output to a FTDI breakout (used to program Arduino Pro. etc.). I have one that Sparkfun.com sells and it works reliably.

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  9. Hi Yuriy
    Thank for answere
    I found this USB serial breakout :http://hobbycomponents.com/index.php/arduino-usb-serial-port-download-adapter.html
    I have a USB bluetooth key for PC too.
    Is it possible to use the USB serial breakout for connect my bluetooth key ?
    Because I think this is easy way to choose the data transmission.

    sorry for my poor english

    regards
    paco

    ReplyDelete
  10. Yuri,
    Starting the build of the MSP430 board. Once this is built, which code bundle is used for this?
    I'm a novice when it comes to coding, so point me in the right direction for installing it.

    Thank you for the development, now I can have a DRO on both the mill & lathe.

    Mark B

    ReplyDelete
  11. Great work Yuri......
    I've been working on this for my lathe and now this appears to be just the solution.
    Any thoughts to adding a tachometer feature?
    I am going to add a multi slot disk to my lathe so I can get a good update rate a slow speeds using an opto interrupter.
    Thanks again.
    Glenn.

    ReplyDelete
  12. Do you have a version of this project that uses a LCD screen and keypad?

    ReplyDelete
  13. How do I wire a 4th USB breakout board for the 2nd Z-axis?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ok, I see where you use 2.7 / XOUT for the w-axis. sorry

      Delete
    2. I haven't updated the "basic" version firmware to support the fourth axis. Will do it over the weekend, though.

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  14. Sorry to bug you but I built the board and connected to the bluetooth successfully and it stayed connected and the bluetooth board kept blinking (once). After I loaded the firmware DigitalReadoutBasic_v1.2.txt this morning, when I power up the bluetooth board now it just blinks a couple times and goes off. The tablet sees it if I search while it's blinking but can't pair with it by the time that's done the lights have gone out on BT board. I do have another BT board but don't want to hose it if there's something else you can think of doing. I have double checked the wires and they appear to be in the right places. I was gonna try removing the firmware but I don't see an obvious way from the Flasher docs. I'd like to try that before risking frying the spare BT. Do you know what the CL would be to de-install the firmware? Or any other ideas? thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well I've done some more testing and the BT behaves just fine, stays paired and connected with the DRO app while powered from the USB port of my PC. But when I power it with 5V transformer that came with my tablet, it drops out. The PS is 2amp. I'm thinking maybe it's getting over powered or something with that PS. Does that make any sense? I'm gonna look for some phone charges and see if I can find one with less amps. What is the optimum voltage and amperage I should be using? thanks

      Delete
    2. Teh current rating of the transformer shouldn't be an issue. Current is drawn, not pushed, so you can have 100 AMP power supply and if the DRO only needs 100 mA it won't draw more than that.
      If you have a multimeter, check what voltage the BT module is getting.

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
    3. Well I'm happy to report the blutooth dropping connection issue I was experiencing in my office this morning has not reproduced in my shop or my living room, with either of 2 power supply/chargers I tested. And each of the 4 inputs for the scales works, at least with 1 scale at a time. I only have 1 scale so I couldn't test them concurrently. I guess the next step is getting the unit enclosed, building a holder for the tablet, and learning how to operate it. thanks for sharing such a useful project

      Delete
  15. HI Yuriy,
    Got an MSP based unit up and running, have some noise issues to sort out, but that's the easy part. I'm having trouble getting this to work with some of my tablets. I Have a new NOOK HD+ that is running android 4.1 and I can pair to the blue tooth but every time I go to connect in the DRO app it just keep asking for the passcode over and over again. I have an HP tablet and a Samsung S3 that connect perfectly every time. I also tried with my old HTC tablet (android 3.x) and the older apk, but the software connects and then the numerical readout portion of the display is all garbled. Any thoughts?
    Thanks,
    John

    ReplyDelete
  16. John,
    Please take a look at the "DRO Project" page. On the bottom there are links to three posts that cover troubleshooting of the most common problems. It might help with the garbled-up display.

    Thank you
    Yuriy

    ReplyDelete
  17. Hi Yuriry,

    Wanted to say I've been using the DRO for a couple of months now; and it's fantastic! Really appreciate all of your effort and publically sharing this.

    Here's a short video I uploaded in October after getting it hooked up.
    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=385321604904940&set=vb.184426224994480&type=3&theater

    Thanks again!

    Scot

    ReplyDelete
  18. Yuriy,
    I've built the set as you describe above. After pairing with my Andriod device I get no data change. Within CCS debug no data is returned from the usb connection to the iGaging scale. If I connect the scale to the lcd module it displays correctly.
    Any ideas?
    Thanks,
    David Rairigh

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. David,
      Any chance you have swapped the lines (data and clock)?
      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
    2. Yes, white to 1.7 and D- and green to 2.x and D+.
      I hard-coded a couple of bits in the buffer for the z-axis and it displayed in the app.
      Thanks
      David

      Delete
    3. Hitting the same problem. I can connect to the MSP and bluetooth but with a scale connected I just get nothing. Did you find a solution? Thanks for the work Yuriy. If I can get this sorted this will be awesome!

      Delete
  19. I meant, yes, they were in the correct configuration.
    Thanks
    David

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi Yuri,
    What Windows based programming software do I use to load your firmware onto the LaunchPad?
    Regards,
    Mike

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Mike,
      Take a look at this post: http://www.yuriystoys.com/2013/09/how-to-upload-firmware-to-msp430.html

      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
    2. Thanx Yuri!
      Uploaded your firmware successfully, that link was helped a great deal!
      Regards,
      Mike

      Delete
  21. hello

    I'm interested by your project , I have an odl lathe and I want to install a scale from old digital height, do you think that is possible with a MSP430G2231
    I've tried this project :http://robocombo.blogspot.fr/2010/12/using-tis-launchpad-to-interface.html but it doesn't work, just got stranges result.
    I've change the 15k resistors by 220 but not result
    I'vn't lot of experience in electronic and some help will be apreciate

    Best regards
    Ray

    ReplyDelete
  22. Hi

    I ve tried the firmware with just one scale and it doesn't work with 2n2222 and 270 Ohms resistor.
    I have a signal on P1.7 but nothing on P23, 4, 5. When I mesure with multimeter on P1.7 where I hav a signal with the scope I have 0,5V but nothing on P2.3, 4, 5.
    Would you please help me !

    Regards

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Laurent,
      These build instructions are for a version that reads iGaging scales. What are you trying to connect to the controller?
      Regards
      Yuriy

      Delete
    2. Dear Yuriy

      Do you mean that Igaging scales have not the same signal output than module of chiness rules
      as height caliper ?

      Best regards

      Delete
    3. Yes, they are VERY different. There is a version of the controller that can read these scales, but it needs more hardware.
      Take a look at these pages:
      http://www.yuriystoys.com/2013/12/selecting-scales-for-dro.html
      http://www.yuriystoys.com/p/android-dro.html
      http://www.yuriystoys.com/2013/10/mixed-scale-dro-controller-project.html

      Delete
    4. Hello

      Thanks for your answer, I ve made the mistake because, I va several model of scales and one with mini usb connector and 3V powered.
      Thanks for the links, I will try your project with 2 scales , but where I can found the right firmware ?

      Best Regards

      Delete
  23. Hi Yuriy,

    Thanks again for all the work you are doing on this. I just built two of the MSP430 units, bare bones using the mini USB breakout boards and have the DRO program on a Asus 7HD, The iGaging scales I have on my RF30 mill using the cables that came with the units, worked fine with the standard battery operated displays and still does. Everything seemed to work fine with the new setup, I calibrated the scales and the display agreed with the hand wheel. Today I worked on a simple project and noticed that the X and Z display jumps to an arbitrary number when I turn the Spindle motor on and off. I have read your post on improving the iGaging scales reliability, do you think that this is where I should start troubleshooting or could it be with the motor switch.

    Also, both of the Bluetooth units use the same code and appears as HC-06 in the program. I have changed the name for the connection on my tablet but the program display does not pick up on the name change.

    Best Regards

    Svend

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Svend,

      I had the same issue as you on my RF25, and solved it by using shielded USB cables as per the instructions on the reliability page. Just make sure that you tie the shield of the cables to ground, or the motor will still cause interference causing the displays to jump.

      I did this by clamping the braids on the controller end of the cables in the metal housing of the connectors I used (round, locking 4 pin connectors like these http://cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electronic-components/fc684214/plug-cliffcon-shielded-4way/dp/CN16293?crosssellid=CN16293&crosssell=true&in_merch=true&), and then tied all the metal socket bodies together and ran a cable to the GND terminal of the DC power jack I used.

      Works a treat. :)

      Cheers

      Jason

      Delete
  24. Svend, you need to configure the BT. Visit http://www.hobbyist.co.nz/?q=bluetooth-module-configurations. Hope this helps.

    Frank

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Frank for the tip. I'll have to look in to that.

      Svend

      Delete
  25. Hi
    I have a drill and capacitance ruller from vernier caliper, so I want to set this ruller for making blind holes with some accuracy.
    Do you think that it's possible to adapt your project on a MSP430G2230 or 2210 ?
    For me it's important because i have to fix this problem of accuracy soon as possible.
    If you help me, I will donate you some $ for your future projects.

    Lidy

    Regards

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lidy,
      In theory it's possible to adapt it to anything you want. MSP430G2553 was a better fit because of the hardware UART, etc. Unfortunately, I can't help you much with this... this is my "evening" project and I simply don't have much time to work on it.
      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  26. Thanks Yuriy

    Sorry that you have not enough time, On your mixed scales project, witch port are you using ?, if it's possible could you give the code for the G2553, it will help me !!

    Thank again

    ReplyDelete
  27. Yuriy, love the hard work that has gone into this and the clear build instructions you've provided. I have a quick question for you and for those who have already gotten this up and running. I have built up the MSP430 board, USB breakouts and Bluetooth per the guide above and flashed the MSP430 iGaging Firmware. I can connect to the mainboard via bluetooth on my Android tablet. However I get no reading from the iGaging scales. I tried to isolate the issue by having only one scale attached and move it between axis and none of them read the scale. It appears that there is some data being transmitted because when I switch from one USB port to another the readout on the tablet goes from 0.000" to -0.000". So it is detecting the scale but not transmitting data. Also, should LED2 (green LED, bottom of MSP430 board) be flashing? Power stays steady green. When i have no scale attached LED1 (red LED, next to LED2) lights up but turns off when scale is plugged in. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated! So far the build has been pretty smooth and cant wait to get up and running! Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. An update to this that might be worth checking out if you are having similar issues. Last night I had uploaded the firmware via the SmartRF app suggested by a user on the "How to Upload Firmware" page. I used the .hex firmware format for the upload and could not get the scales to read on my tablet. This morning I tried it using the CMD line method laid out by Yuriy using the .txt firmware and it works like a charm, even better than I could have imagined! In the end I don't know if the issue was caused by using SmartRF or if there was some quirk in the .hex file. In any case it works better than described and I hope this might help others who run into this issue. Thanks again!

      Delete
    2. Good to hear hat you are up and running. Which file were you attempting to use with SmartRF? The Universal works well from both .hex and .txt.

      Frank

      Delete
    3. I did a little troubleshooting last night to try and replicate the problems and I'm a bit sheepish to say that the issue lies with the USB breakout boards I was using, not the firmware. I purchased a few pairs of mini usb boards from Schmartboard. The boards come in pairs and with a crease separating each board. It was my understanding that there was no conductive paths between the boards but they must be joined at the core level of the board. In any case, when I tried the universal .hex file using SmartRF I had all of the jumpers connected to the USB breakout boards. Since there was conductance at the core level between boards I was getting a short on the DATA output which is why I was seeing the jump between 0.000 and -0.000 but no transmission of data.

      Out of frustration I had flashed using the universal .txt using command line and removed all jumpers to the USB breakout boards except for one. Since there was no short I was able to read the scale with no problems. I have since physically separated the breakout boards and reflashed using SmartRF and everything works great now. Tested it with three axis on my mill last night with a great result!

      Thanks for the followup!

      Delete
  28. Thanks for all your work on the site/project! Is there a source for purchasing Igaging scales separately or is it necessary to purchase the scales and readouts together?

    ReplyDelete
  29. Hi Yuriy,
    Finally managed to get my head around all the different systems and options here.
    Was there any intention in the future to include a system that reads rotary quadrature encoders?
    Thanks for great projects.....Jorgo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The quadrature version of the firmware can read rotary encoders already.

      Delete
  30. ok....so the connections would be X clock/A and X data/B for first encoder and Y etc for others??
    I think I see it now in "Dro interface pin function" section.

    ReplyDelete
  31. Hi Yuriy,

    I've built the MSP430 launchpad as you instructed and connected 3 iGaging scales for my mill. When the iGaging scales are connected to their own displays the readouts are stable and appear accurate. When conected to the MSP430 launchpad 2 of the 3 scales are unstable (jump randomly to odd large numbers). The other scale is stable and accurate. I'm using the Beta version of your app and I've used the digital filter to average the readings to reduce flicker. I think I've determined that the problem is not in the MSP430 launchpad circuit by connecting the stable axis on the MSP430 to each of the 3 iGaging scales -- 2 out of three still flicker. I've taken the offending scale readers apart and cleaned them up as best I can, but they are still unstable. Why would they be stable on the iGaging display and not on your app? Should just purchase some new scales?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Try powering the scales from a battery (or three separate batteries) and see if that helps things. 9 out of 10 stability problems are usually caused by the noise in the power supply and/or ground loops.

      Delete
    2. Thanks. I tried that and it didn't help.

      Delete
    3. Hi Yuriy-
      Just finished my MSP430-based controller per your instructions here. The Bluetooth coupled succesfully but I am having a similar problem to what migueles describes. All axes (and all combinations) produce an unstable display with random flashing numbers.

      I tried three different power supplies with no change. All wiring appears to be correct. When connected directly to the LCD display units, all axes work correctly. I am using the latest firmware (digitalreadoutbasic_v1.3.txt) with AccuRemote scales.

      Any troubleshooting advice would be greatly appreciated.
      Thanks /James

      Delete
    4. Are you 100% sure your data and clock lines are connected correctly (not reversed) etc.?
      I will be difficult to troubleshoot this issue without an oscilloscope or a logical analyzer, unfortunately.

      Delete
    5. Thanks, Yuriy. Triple checked all connections and they are just as in your photos above. I also noticed that my board arrived from TI with five jumpers installed (VCC, Test, RST, RXD, and TXD). I removed the RXD and TXD to match yours in the photo but it made no difference.

      One other difference is that I am using the new iGaging "Absolute" scales which seem to be replacing the AccuRemote (http://www.igaging.com/page44.html). Do you have any experience with these?

      Best /James

      Delete
    6. James,
      I haven't tested iGaging Absolute scales yet. There is a good chance that they use a completely different protocol. If you feel like letting me borrow one of the scales for a few days, I can at least check if it's the same...
      Regards
      Yuriy

      Delete
    7. Thanks, Yuriy -- I'd be glad to send you a scale but my mill is tied up with a project at the moment. Is there any other way we can get one to you? Or can I check the protocol in any way?

      Delete
    8. To check the protocol you'd need a logic analyzer or a digital oscilloscope with some amount of memory.
      I will eventually buy at least one of those scales and try it out, but I don't know what the timeline is.
      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  32. Hi Yuriy-
    I'm in the process of building the Launchpad-based controller and would like to provide accommodations for the upcoming tachometer input. Will there be an additional circuit board required? Do you know what type of input connector you'll use? Any other tips would be most appreciated.
    Many thanks for your fine work!
    Regards /James

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. James,
      Take a look at these two posts:
      http://www.yuriystoys.com/2014/07/diy-tachometer-for-your-mill-or-lathe.html
      http://www.yuriystoys.com/2014/01/dro-interface-pin-functions-for-msp430.html

      Between the two they have the information you'll need.
      Thank you
      Yuriy

      Delete
  33. My MSP430 DRO is up and running!

    Had some "jumping" issues initially - completely cured by plugging both the mill and the MSP430 into the same Costco USB/wall outlet adapter (common ground point). I'm using stock iGaging cables without any problems.

    It's a great thing!

    ReplyDelete
  34. I have built a board almost identical to the one above. I did not include the bypass capacitors yet and I added a 4th USB breakout board. Other than those 2 changes mine is the same as above. I have flashed the processor with the latest code and paired my table to the bluetooth module. However, I do not have any scales connected yet, they should be here in a couple days.

    When I run the TouchDRO app and click Connect the app connects successfully and a couple seconds later the title bar changes to "TouchDRO - Idle". After about 20-30 seconds the app disconnects from the controller and a message is displayed "Device connection was lost".

    I can understand the Idle part since there are no scales. Is it normal for the app to disconnect from the controller if there are no scales present or do I have another problem I need to work out?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. No, you should be getting positions (all 0s). Make sure your BT Tx/Rx wires are not backwards (Rx goes to Tx and vice verse)

      Delete
  35. Doh! I had it right on the first board. But when it turned out that one was bad and I got the second dev board, I connected Rx to Rx by mistake.

    Since your build instructions only show to connect Tx on the BT module to Rx on the LaunchPad, I assume there is no plan for 2 way communication in the future?

    ReplyDelete
  36. I installed the whole system on my lathe last night. This thing works great! Thanks for all the hard work on this project.

    ReplyDelete
  37. Yuriy, Steve (BukitCase) from Shopfloor talk - we're having a discussion there on TouchDRO and getting confused on use/wiring of the mini USB breakouts - you stated that they use "standard usb connection" - but elsewhere stated that iGaging does NOT use standard usb - yet your pictures show the breakout connecting to controller board exactly as marked - my question is, if we wire things as shown at the top of this page, will the supplied iGaging cable work correctly plugged into the breakout so that plugging the scale BACK into the iGaging display is still possible? Thanks for any clarification on this, you've made it so LOTS more people can have DRO without having to live on the street :=) Steve L.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Steve,
      What I meant was that they use standard Mini-USB connector but not the USB protocol. Plugging them into a standard USB port (on a computer, for example) will fry the reading head.
      The cable will work correctly with those breakout boards and you will be able to use the display unit interchangeably with the DRO.
      Thank you
      Yuriy

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    2. Yuriy, thank you for the quick reply, sorry for being a pest - maybe just one more question; is the 5 volts from a standard usb port what will fry the reader, or something else? Been working with electronics/tech stuff for over 50 years, and always look for the "why" of things so I don't "let any more smoke out" than I have to... Steve L

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    3. iGaging scales use 3.6V logic and USB us a 5V bus. Generally they don't mix very well. It could end up being VCC or one of the data lines.
      With that said, I have connected a scale to 5V and it lived, but became pretty flaky and died a few weeks later.

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  38. Gotcha, thanks again - got everything on order except the tablet, now if I can just get the "honey-do" list out of my hair for a while :=) Steve L

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  39. Yuriy I have built the board and downloaded the software package from TI but when I click on install for the 430cdc file it gives the error msg "the inf file you selected does not support this method of installation" I on windows7. have already paired with my android so need the file to finish up any ideas?

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    Replies
    1. got it connected the board looked it up in device manager and updated the driver got your latest txt file loaded and I see the scales. but they are blkinking at a rapid rate, in time with the trans led light on the board. I did not put the .1uf capacitors on the sparkfun usb boards would that stop the blinking. I don't have power on my mill when this happens.

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  40. Yuriy, I have built the MSP430 version and it works fantastic using 5 micron magnetic read heads. I have fitted it to a small Cowells Milling Machine. I read somewhere on this site that you were hoping to produce a update to the circuit to operate an electronic edge finder. Is this still in your plans?.

    Best Regards,

    Colin

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  41. Just wired the break out boards and blue tooth board to MSP430 ,I hope this isnt a stupid question but
    where do I wire 5v phone charger supply to on the MSP430 board..

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  42. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  43. Please ignore my previous post all working perfectly and a big thanks to Yuriy for
    a great app and the support for it.

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  44. Hi,

    I build the MSP430 Mixed Mode Version and everthing works fine, but one thing irritates me...is it normal that all Axes would be set to Zero when i press one of the Zero Buttons on one of the Calipers?
    Is there a way to seperate that?
    best regards
    daniel

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    1. Daniel,
      The short answer is "don't press the Zero buttons on the calipers". That sort of defeats the purpose of having the app in the first place. You can zero out individual axes by long pressing the "ABS/INCR" buttons. Otherwise you are messing up your work space origin...
      Loner answer: some calipers set the origin suing hard-reset (by shorting power to the ground). When one caliper shorts Vcc to Ground, all others get reset as well. I'm sure there is a way to isolate the calipers, but I don't have a solution for that.
      Thank you
      Yuriy

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  45. Has there been any progress on using a USB cable to connect the MSP430 to the android tablet. The last information I can find on this issue was a serial to USB board was required in place of the bluetooth module, but what type of module required was never determined. eg: would this board work? http://www.dx.com/p/crius-ftdi-basic-breakout-5v-usb-to-ttl-6-pin-module-for-mwc-multiwii-lite-se-228307
    or this one http://www.dx.com/p/usb-to-uart-5-pin-cp2102-module-serial-converter-81872

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  46. Has anyone used the shares dro scale with this system? I can't get it to work. Help is needed badly.

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  47. IS that Shars scales? if so I would like to see them working too!

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  48. Yuriy,
    How does one handle the situation of where I have a Jenix glass scale on the lathe Z axis and an Accuremote on the X (cross slide)? I want to use an Accuremote because it is so much thinner comparatively. A bulky glass won't work. MSP430 does not support both. Is there a way to do it? (same situation on mill, too bulking for quill Z axis) I hate to give up my Jenix scales because I've got a lot of money tied up in them. Thanks very much.

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  49. Hello sorry for my english is translated by google
    I am interested in building one
    Can connect via usb to tablet, no bluetooth

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    Replies
    1. Yes. You need to replace BT module with FTDI breakout board.

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